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Bus rides in Laos

They’re really not great. Well it all depends on the combination. There are local buses which are pretty average but seem to make it to their destination most of the time, there are VIP buses which are a little more cushy and play bad Asian pop music on a tv screen, and then there are the quick but cramped minibus services.

We took the local bus from Luang Prabang to Phonsavan because it seemed to be the only choice. It started off pretty bendy. If anyone knows the Macquarie Pass Rd in NSW then it was sort of like that but more constant. Pretty early into the trip I wasn’t feeling well but thought the bends would be over soon enough. They weren’t. Can you believe there’s not ONE straight bit of road in the 8 hours it takes to get between these two places?

Looking out the window at villages is interesting at first, but a couple of hours into it and you feel like you’ve seen it all. We stopped in a sad looking village for lunch and were surprised at just how cold it was. We weren’t really hungry so filled some time by looking at the passers by: a guy with a machine gun (I think it was real) on his shoulder, and grotty kids with welcoming “Sabadees”.

Back on the bus. More of the same for 4 hours.

Luang Prabang – Day 2

We woke early to be reminded that it was in fact winter and so the sun had only risen by 7am. It was cold, quiet and misty as we walked down the main street to get some breakfast. We first wandered down to the river to take some photos and on the way we saw the procession of monks. There were probably more than a hundred and they all walked in a line along the side of the road as women put a handful of sticky rice into the bowl that each was carrying.

We continued to watch them as we had fantastic chocolate and banana crepes across from the travel agent where our tour was to begin.

After breakfast we followed a long line of tourists down to the river for a long boat ride to the Pak Ou Caves. We probably should’ve worked out that being on a river boat at 8am in winter is going to be cold, but we didn’t so instead shivered our way to the first village stop. This village was known as a paper making village, and while it was all lovely hand made paper, there was no way it could survive the journey in our backpacks. Not at this early stage.

Second stop was a whisky village. I didn’t dare taste any but instead wandered round and found a nice piece of silk to buy for only $4. It’s hard to look at anything without being asked to buy it. Hopefully it’ll become easier.

The village was full of content people who seemed to think we were all a pretty funny lot of people as we wandered aimlessly and a little lost through their village. There’s was also a few sleeping dogs thrown in for good measure.

We got back in the boat and assumed we were headed for the caves. We had no way of telling how much longer the journey would be as the cold river air blew against my shoulder. Thankfully it wasn’t too long. The caves were quite spectacular, filled with hundreds of different sized Buddha statues, and jutting out from a cliff over the Mekong. We climbed all the way up the side of the mountain (when I say climb, I mean up steps), to another cave but this one much darker and less densely populated with Buddhas.

Running back to the boat so that it didn’t leave without us was pretty pointless. We sat there for at least 20 minutes waiting for some tourist who clearly wasn’t wearing a watch. Luckily we got back to town just in time to get our swimmers and have some lunch before our afternoon adventure began.

A cushy minibus transported us to the waterfalls about 45minutes from the town centre. The path leading up to the waterfalls was full of food and craft stalls. It was becoming apparent that wherever there were tourists there were also things to buy. The waterfalls were probably one of the best I’ve ever seen, and the most fun. There was a little bridge that carried us over the smoky turquoise coloured water. The whole area was so beautiful and perfect that it almost looked like a theme park creation. The place was as much fun as a theme park too. We followed the path up a very steep hill and as we approached the top water was running down the path. We took off our shoes and continued under and over branches, and through knee deep pools of water. Soon enough we came to the top where there was a rickety bamboo ladder that led down to a cliff halfway up the waterfalls. Surely in any Western country there’d be fences and warning signs, but to my great joy, not here!

The trip back to town involved another village stop. More of the same stuff was getting sold, but this time there were also some little kids to harass us as soon as we emerged from the bus. I’ve really gotta get tougher, but I can’t help but spend 50 cents on something I don’t need in this situation.

Another night and another walk through the night markets. This time we ate some great Lao food from a stall there.

We tried to get to bed early again despite the karaoke downstairs because we had a long bus trip the next day.

Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang is a pretty little town that’s had a lot of money poured into its restoration, mostly of the French architecture.

We headed straight for some lunch after checking in to our guesthouse. There are a few ritzy looking restaurants further down the main road but we went past them and found a great place with some plastic chairs out the front. Chickens ran around our feet as we ate duck laap (supposedly a national dish) and an excellent chicken coconut curry. We watched on as a man chopped the tops off coconuts and then scooped all the contents into a plastic bag for a tasty take-away drink.

As we walked back to the guesthouse, night markets were getting set up around our feet. Lots of silk, lots of fisherman’s pants and lots of knee high kids. Over the next two nights we’d buy all the pants and shirts needed for the rest of our trip.

That evening we thought we’d be a little adventurous in a restaurant in the main part of town. Fried seaweed was supposedly another regional specialty but it left a taste and texture in our mouths that we couldn’t quite place or get used to. The papaya salad was much better, even if the chilli did become a little overbearing.

We had a big day planned for the following day so headed to bed early. It was a shame our walls were paper thin and there was karaoke til late downstairs. Ah, the joys of having a discman on a trip.

Lao Air

We really did only think our lives were slightly at risk when going on Lao Airlines and the truth is that they really weren’t any worse than a standard Virgin Blue flight. Well, the landing may have been a little bumpier.

The funniest bit would have to have been getting a mini bus from the departure lounge at Chiang Mai airport the whole 20 meters to the plane.

Oh, and the food may have been free on board, but boy was it bad. Another example of the Asian fascination with the hot dog.

Chiang Mai

Now that I’m in Vang Vieng I’m finally able to get back to blogging. But I should start a week ago in Bangkok.

Don Muang airport sucks. If you’ve only got time for an airport stopover, make sure it’s not there. It was difficult killing time waiting for our train to arrive but we happily went straight to bed once it did. And we were on our way to Chiang Mai in the northern part of Thailand.

I had my first encounter with a tuk-tuk (something that’s now being quite run-of-the-mill), this one being a ute fitted with seats and a canopy over the back. Luckily the guy even knew where our hotel was.

First thing to tick off the list of things to do was paying for our Lao Air tickets. Little did we know that it had to be paid in Thai baht so we went to the bank to exchange some US dollars. Funnily enough an American woman wanting to exchange baht heard what we were doing and we did a dodgy currency exchange right there in the bank. The first of many.

Other good parts of Chiang Mai:

The pastries and duck in the basement of the Central Department Store.

The Oasis Spa where we got a great massage, scrub, facial and green tea for far less than at home.

The night markets with endless silk, fisherman’s pants, fresh coconuts and more good food. And we even ran into some old school friends, Mel and Ellie, who we knew were in Chiang Mai but hadn’t managed to meet with yet.



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