AngeLog

Snow Monkeys near Nagano

On the train to Yudanaka station from Kyoto I started to wonder if it was worth the effort. From the window of the speedy shinkansen train we watched factory after factory, town after town slide by under the heavy, grey sky. We were on our way to a ryokan near a national park in search of snowy mountains, steamy hot springs and frolicking snow monkeys, but it was taking half a day and we weren’t really sure what we’d find at the other end.

Luckily, pessimists are rarely disappointed.

The town

The old town of Shibu Onsen, down the hill from where we stayed, was like walking through a movie set. Craig, the kiwi guy working (for many years) at the ryokan – Biyu no Yada – dropped us off at the end of the old town in front of a temple at around 9pm with a map to get back. It was a few degrees above zero and there didn’t seem to be anyone around. “Slide the doors open and have a look in,” he told us as we jumped out into the van at the temple. “Just make sure you close the doors after to keep the cats out.”

The area was eerily quiet. All covered in snow, our walk through the town was accompanied by the constant sound of rushing water as melting snow, hot springs and the river all combined. Steam rose up from the ground giving the cobblestone street a hazy yellow look. We snuck about the grounds talking in whispers, finding our way to a path glowing under the lantern light eventually stumbling into the main street of bath houses with a sense of awe and excitement.

The town isn’t far off from being a movie set, as we’d discover the next morning. On the way to the snow monkey park Craig stopped on one side of the bridge to explain it was the inspiration for the bridge in the classic anime film Spirited Away. He then told us to hold our breath as he ZOOMED to the other side of the bridge, heading straight for a brick wall as we crossed to the “other world”. (watch the bridge scene)

The other film influence from the town is the Kanaguya onsen, also portrayed in Spirited Away. The 3 or 4 storey wooden building towers over everything near it, bending and creaking in interesting ways that modern architecture just can’t. The street had other peculiarities too. There was a natural hot spring pouring water onto a bowl of eggs which we saw a man stop to buy (Japan’s version of the late night kebab?), and a shop front with pellet guns facing rows and rows of toy figurines to shoot down.

As we wandered down the road we’d spot the occasional Japanese couple dressed in yutaka leaving a hot bath. It’s really the perfect weekend away; spend the whole time in a dressing gown, hang out in various hot springs and be fed multiple courses for dinner and breakfast.

And that’s the other thing we did.

The accommodation

Biyu no Yada was a great place to stay because, not only did it have a local Kiwi to translate for us, but it was also less traditional that most onsens. We had a traditional room with tatami and futons, a kaiseki dinner and natural hot springs. We could wander about without feeling like rude westerners, even though we were probably the only westerners in the hotel.

We were brave enough to try the private rooftop onsen even though it was only 4 degrees outside. The bath was so hot that we only lasted about 20 minutes before needing to cool down. Being on the rooftop of a 7 storey building on the top of a hill made for an amazing view too.

Later that night I tried the segregated onsens in the basement – indoor and outdoor. A few older Japanese women were already bathing so I made sure to have an extra good scrub before heading in, then, subtly watching them as they got out so I’d know the next set of protocols to follow. Once out, there’s an area with sinks decked out with moisturisers and other products to complete your spa experience. I’d highly recommend a visit to a bathhouse, and I’d love to go back to an onsen town near a ski-field. Kinda wish I’d made it to Sydney’s Korean Bath House before it closed some years back.

The food

Dinner was amazing. Craig recommended the local brew of Shiga Kogen Pale Ale which was a lot like Little Creatures Pale Ale, one of my favourite beers. Our table was set with most of the food, most astounding being the stump with mushrooms growing from it. Through sign language and demonstration we were told to pull the mushrooms off the stump and cook them on our personal mini grill.

There was raw thinly sliced pork for us to cook in a pot of water over a flame, and slabs of beef which tasted amazing after we cooked them over another flame in butter, onions and capsicum. But that’s not all. Plum wine, sushi, pickles, miso, rice, udon and dipping sauces were all laid out in front of us. Spoilt for choice, I spent as much time deciding which bit to taste as I did eating them.

Finally, the snow monkeys

The snow monkey park is a 5 minute drive and 30-40 minute walk away. We donned some gumboots from the ryokan but were surprised to find it quite an easy stroll through beautiful snowy forest, except for an initial hill and a final set of steps. There were tall pine trees, perfectly built stone walls, a windy path and finally the valley with steam pouring out of various crevices. The area is named Jigokudani Park, which means “Hell’s Valley”.

There were SO many monkeys and they were so cute. Once we spotted one across the valley we’d slowly start to notice movement all over. After paying our 500 yen entrance fee we got through to where the monkeys lazed about in the hot springs, played on ropes, picked fleas off each other and generally engaged in cute monkey behaviour.

Best to leave it to the pictures I think.

Lastly

On the drive to the monkey park Craig gave us some history of the town and stopped to say hello to some local friends on the streets only just as wide as the van. There was the sake factory and the sake man. The beer brewery and the brewing man, as well an owner of a ryokan down the road. He pointed out a ryokan where Princess Masako stopped for coffee (under tight security) on her way to going skiing, and another house which was once home to samurais. It all added up to really feeling like we were in town and a country with many centuries of tradition and one where being born with a particular family name partially controls your future.

Strolling through Kyoto

Kyoto is another city I left feeling like I hadn’t quite seen enough of it. Somehow it reminds me of a French town, possibly because of the narrow streets and a culture of pedestrians, cars and bikes all happily sharing the same space. Of course there’s the emphasis on food too. Most important.

We spent the first two days meandering around without too much of a plan. It’s not my usual style, so by day three – our final day – I had a long list of things to do and not enough time. Here’s my summary of the most interesting bits bits.

EATING

Omen was mentioned in the Kyoto Time Out as a good noodle place near the beginning of The Philosopher’s Walk. We chose it for its convenience rather than it’s write-up, but it deserved more attention. The Philosopher’s Walk was pleasant and quaint, but turning back halfway to go to Omen was a good decision. I imagine The Philosopher’s Walk is at it’s best in cherry blossom season but then you have all those darn tourists to put up with.

But back to Omen. It’s a small and refined space with well-priced food and polite service. The standard shoes off at the door and then sitting on the floor applied. The English menus made it easy enough to work out what we wanted, and then after an explanation from the waitress our amazing udon experience began. Various pickles and vegetables were artfully lined up on a tray. From there it was a matter of mixing your own with the noodles and the soup broth in two separate bowls. It was simple and delicious and we got a hot and cold version so we could try a bit of each.

Kanga-an was the other significant dining experience. I’d have to say that the experience was more enjoyable than the food, given I prefer meat over Buddhist meat. The restaurant is set in a temple once lived in by the Emperor and his family. It’s hiding in the middle of a few suburban blocks, but once at the entrance there’s no mistaking it. A traditional gate is followed by a stunning garden which is artfully lit-up at night time. As we wandered into the garden we were greeted by the man who would then serve us for most of the evening (a monk?). There were 14 courses, the most visually appealing being the first course which was served on a rock garden, complete with real flowers. There were delicate vegetable broths, spikey soy balls hidden in leaves as
well as the usual things like tempura. The service was very friendly and not overly formal but we were still left asking each other questions in hushed tones after they delivered food to our private dining room.

Other tasty bits we stumbled upon….

Having a Japanese pancake at Issen Yoshoku on the edge of Gion is recommended in all the guidebooks. We stumbled there after arriving late at night from a delayed flight. It has a giant menu with one item in it, so it was definitely an easy introduction to Japan. One giant pancake, please ma’am! It was covered with Worcestershire sauce and shallots so it was a pretty full-on experience. The just cooked egg hiding in the centre was the highlight.

I was delighted to find a French patisserie only a few blocks from where we stayed. Le Petit Mec, on Imadegawa Street just west of the Imadegawa-Omiya Street intersection, had croissants and brioche which tasted as they should. It was in a beautiful little shop where all sorts of sweet and savoury things were piled high. There were mini rolls with salmon and brie, as well as a few more uniquely Japanese items. My brioche au chocolate turned out to have dried apricot in it, but I was cool with that.

Stumbled into a place called Senmonten which basically did gyoza and not much more. One guy making them at one end of the counter, us eating them at the other, old man behind the til and young girl pulling the beers and serving us. The vibe was somehow more American bar from the ’60s than anything Japanese. A pile of change later and we walked back to the hotel with a warm glow of gyoza.

Nature Donuts on the main street was not quite the hot and soft donut experience we’d hoped for, but if dry cake with flavourings is your thing then go for it.

The Nishiki market is worth a wander through if only to look and taste the amazing array of pickles. There’s all sorts of fresh food there, some which is good for eating on the spot. I tried some “jumbo” takayaki (octopus) balls but they were too jumbo for my liking; still gooey on the inside.

Lastly, vending machines! They count as food, right? I’m pleased to report they sell both hot AND cold Royal Tea. It’ll be my new addiction when returning to work in Sydney’s Chinatown, and a cheaper one than my current Cha Time addiction.

Oh and the strawberries have been great too. We saw a pack of three giant strawberries being sold for 1500 yen (almost $20) in Nishiki Market. I always thought the smaller ones tasted better so luckily they’re cheap and plentiful in the supermarkets.

SHOPPING

Is it just me, or do shops in a foreign country look exotic and amazing on first look and then boring the second? I had big plans to buy lots of “tasteful” souvenirs (is there such a thing?), but after seeing the same shops a couple of times I couldn’t see the point in any of it. I wanted to, I swear.

Anyway, if in Kyoto I recommend you check out Kyoto Design House for design souvenirs and accessories, Graniph for t-shirts and hoodies (although I now know there’s one in Sydney), a couple of vintage clothing stores in the same building as record store art rock 1 (anyone for some ’60s Gaultier?) and Muji for the food.

SIGHTSEEING

We made it to Ginkaku-ji first. It’s known as the silver pavilion even though it never became silver…. all good intentions but no outcome so have your imagination ready kids. Nonetheless, it was beautiful, and in a scenic spot at the bottom of the mountains and with lovely landscaping.

Kinkaku-ji is the golden pavilion, a 30 minute bus ride west of the silver pavilion. It was much busier, but that didn’t detract from how stunning the gold looked as it reflected on the pond in the afternoon sun. Despite the afternoon sun, we were freezing so we whizzed around the site before huddling together back at the bus stop.

The last temple we officially visited was Kiyomizu-dera and if ever there was a super temple, this was it. It was spectacularly perched halfway up a mountain, with views over Kyoto and the temple is amazing in its construction – massive timber poles and no nails – yet the hordes of crowds somehow detracted from the experience. Give me a quiet temple in the city and I’ll be happy….. good thing we did actually stumble across many quiet temples. Of course, for Japanese tourists sites like this one have a different significance so perhaps we shouldn’t have been crowding them.

GETTING AROUND THE CITY

Cycling was definitely the best way to get around the city. The style of cycling is more like being a pedestrian on wheels than being a slow moving car. Here’s a list of places where you can hire bikes. There is also Community Cycle which is easy, cheap and was only a few blocks north of our hotel Mitsui Garden, Sanjo.

Other than that, getting a one day bus pass for 500 yen and a bus map is enough to get you to the various temples. The subway is also easy to use and on both forms of transport you’ll no doubt have helpful people coming over to check that you’re ok.

Bridgestone + Nitto + Brooks + more

Firstly, if anyone is restoring one of these bikes from scratch you might want to check out the old catalogues on the Sheldon Brown site.

While at Citizen Chain I collected a few random pieces for the bike. The Brooks standard B17 saddle (honey and men’s…. couldn’t see that I needed a specific women’s one), the MKS GR-9 platform pedals and MKS toe clips with brown leather trim.

So that still left a surprising number of parts to order online from Australia. With the generous help of Nick and Naomi I ordered the majority of the parts from Wiggle, Chain Reaction Cycles, Rivendell and Velo Orange.

The parts that didn’t fit…

Shimano BR-550 cantilever brakes. The original bike had cantis so I thought these would work. Turns out none of the newly made cantis will fit old bikes.

The beautiful Dia Compe brake levers from Velo Orange. The change in brakes meant that I had to change the brake levers too.

VO headset. I can’t remember why, but there was something non-standard about what the frame required. The frame is particularly short at the front so it may have been to do with the thread length.

The bits that did work…

The Nitto Randonneur drop bars, bought from Nick as they weren’t the right size for him.

The Nitto tall stem (26/70mm). A hard one to track down but worth it so that I didn’t go from a standard hybrid height to a super-low drop bar height. Also needed a shim to make the stem fit the 25.4mm bars.

The seat post is new-old-stock of the original Kalloy brand and was found on eBay. It’s 27mm rather than the more standard 26.2mm.

Dura Ace 9-speed bar end shifters. These are so nice to use. Indexed to click on the right but not for the three on the left.

Stronglight crankset (Impact Triple chainset 28/38/48 170mm). I was deciding between a double and triple. I rarely use the three cogs in my city commuting but I figured there was no harm in having the triple for the occasional country ride I might do. I was also looking at Sugino cranksets but this one is now discontinued so I got it for the super-cheap price of $45.

I ended up going for v-brakes when the cantilevers weren’t going to work. That meant the Cane Creek brake levers were my only option. At first this was a little disappointing, but now I appreciate that I have top quality brakes which stop really well. They give the bike a sportier look than I was originally going for with the brown but it works nicely.

The brakes I have are Avid Single Digit SL V Brakes with Kool Stop salmon pads.

SRAM 9-speed cassette. Went for the 9-speed to fit the bar end shifters. 11-32 was the spec… for reasons I can’t remember.

Jack Brown (green) tyres. These feel amazing. Well, it’s probably the combination of rims and hubs too, but they bounce so nicely.

Mavic Open Sport Pros spoked at Cheeky Monkey in Newtown (the people who also assembled the bike).

Ultegra front and rear hubs 32 hole

Tiagra front derailleur.

Shimano rear derailleur.

SRAM 9 chain.

Chromoplastic fenders. Despite being plastic, these look great. They also have the advantage of being lighter, cheaper and quieter than the very nice looking Honjos.

After all that I also bought a New York Kryptonite lock but it’s heavier than I anticipated so I only use it when leaving the bike in dodgy areas.

Bridgestone RB-T build

Last November when we were in the states I had a plan to bring home a bike. This grand idea came to me last October when I saw a nice bike at the traffic lights on Broadway and Jones St in Sydney after following her from my work. A few corners later we were still neck and neck and so got talking about the subject of her nice bike. Turns out the bike was bought from Citizen Chain in San Francisco, the city I was flying to only a few weeks later. Recounting this story to Sasha in the shop he told me how the bike was snapped up the day after it went into the window display so there was hardly time to show off his work.

I didn’t find my perfect bike that day but I instead found a frame – a Bridgestone RB-T. At the time I wasn’t aware of its historical significance, but I liked the look of it, how it could work for me and it was my size so I bought it. “Much easier to take a frame to Australia than a bike,” as a visitor hanging out in the shop told me.

Since then I’ve been learning what all the parts are called and what bits would be best for me, all thanks to the generous help of some clued in friends. I’m only just at the stage of understanding how all the parts work together so I definitely won’t be building it myself, no, that task will be left to Cheeky Transport in Newtown.

So here’s a photo of the frame, and next will be a list of all the parts followed by the built bike itself. Exciting stuff… for bike nerds at least.

Into the Oregon woods

Driving through the Oregon woods is the scary stuff of fairy tales. Scary in a good way. It’s damp, dark and misty. Slimey, slippery and quiet. Tread carefully for Mulder or Scully might be hiding behind a tree. On the road west from Eugene to Florence there’s a forest of young fir trees (Siuslaw National Park) with moss so thick it drips from the branches. The damp roads must never have a chance to dry and the fog hangs in the tree tops like carefully placed Halloween decorations.

Growing up with a small patch of Australian bush up the road I never understood why the woods were supposed to be scary. The bush has always been a place of adventure, discovery and good times. Warm, dry and bright with a strong eucalypt scent and the comforting buzz of insects. I never once found a trail of breadcrumbs or scary bears looking for porridge.

Back in Siuslaw, the road through the forest curved on and on – even tunnelling through a mountain – before ending up by streams, rivers and finally the coast. We drove through small towns which were variations on a theme with a few quirks thrown in. One town had an eBay shopfront where a power seller (TM) was dispersing to the world the goods of computer-illiterate locals.

We spent our first night of the road trip in the seaside town of Port Orford. It was remarkably smaller and darker than Google Maps told us (things always look bright and easy on Google Maps). Despite arriving at our B&B at 5.15pm it was well and truly pitch black. Being from the city, I can’t remember the last time I saw this much darkness, however it fitted in nicely with the wood fire and the home-made cookies at the beautiful Compass Rose B&B.

We headed straight out to dinner (“restaurants close at 8pm around here”) at Griff’s On The Dock, a slightly kooky place recommended on the Thorntree forum (“ask them what’s fresh and order it”), and by the B&B owner. The place reminded me of a tiny truck-stop – all red and white tablecloths, busy walls and a waitress with all the charm of your no-nonsense school canteen lady. Our table quickly filled with clam chowder, salads, calamari, halibut, steamed clams, garlic bread and beer from nearby city of Bend. The place really was right on the dock, a shack amongst boats, although we were oblivious to them as we curved down the ramp towards the sea. Like going through digital camera photos the morning after a party, we drove back to the dock to see just what we had done the night before.

Arriving to a town in darkness – especially one too small for a walkable strip or streetlights – means you need to wait til morning for it to reveal itself. We woke to see sunshine streaming through the forest and a view through to the marshes and a lake. It was a beautiful and secluded spot. Walking around the forest on a sunny day was nothing like the scary misty forest of the previous day. The ground felt like thick Persian carpet and there were soft textures in all directions. There were birds, salamanders, and deer hoof prints, although it wasn’t until we were leaving that we saw actual deer frolicking by the side of the road.

The dramatic coast of Oregon and the beaches of Port Orford are best left to photos – even my amateur ones.